Père-Lachaise Cemetery

“Père-Lachaise is my favorite place in all Paris. My fondness was fixed on the first visit. It was late afternoon, a fine day, early in September. A time of lengthening shadows. I was wandering aimlessly among the antique stones, when a gnomish woman slipped from between two mausoleums, flagged me down and asked: cherchez vous Sarah Bernhardt?” wrote Bill Richardson in the preamble to his delightful, humor-filled book Waiting for Gertrude.

It is the only place in Paris where I can feel and hear the music of the four seasons. Its extravagant collection of French 19th century statuary representing pagan beauties, languishing widows, beautiful mourners and naked muses is set in abundant vegetation, quite unique in Paris. Romantic alleys and little cobblestone roads turn this most famous cemetery into a unique, mysterious place of promenades.

Temples, pyramids, obelisks and châteaux with stained-glass windows shelter the tombs of the illustrious people who could afford a spot here. Not so long ago it also offered shelter to a colony of happy, independent cats. My favorite cat, Mr Tom-Tom, was a native of here. He brought to my ears the true stories of Heloïse & Abelard, Jim Morrison, Pissarro, Visconti, Rossini, Chopin, Ingres, Edith Piaf, Maria Callas, Oscar Wilde, Isadora Duncan, Balzac, Delacroix, Bizet, Corot, Lalique, Gericault, Molière, La Fontaine, Modigliani and so many others.

I must give special thanks to my friend Ruth W. with whom the research for this tour turned into a joyful treasure hunting game.